~~ Flex Edition ~~
>Where do I start?
People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.
>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.
>What shoes do I buy?
If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).
Here are some useful resources for sizing:
>https://sizesquirrel.com/
>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe-sizing-guide
Thread Sponsor:
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>Where is the old bread?
>X pro climber doesn't do a thing
>Guess I shouldn't either
Adam ondra never went to college, so if you have a degree you're doing it wrong.
Frick just realized he did go to college. It's over bros
i always think about this when you see idiots dropping out and living in vans to climb 5.13a, ondra climbed 9b+ going to uni
I wouldn't drop out to live in a van, but I'd definitely make a summer trip of it. Trying to emulate pros' every single habit is dumb, but there's something to dirtbagging I feel benefits hardcore training. Most pros became pros because they lived near crags and/or had trad dads/moms teaching them, as was Ondra's deal.
So for a summer trip; For 2 months it'd be nothing but you and the crag. Constantly experiencing different routes and styles, being able to get used to smearing. I feel that outdoor climbing naturally leads to faster skill development anyways, so combining that with dirtbagging sounds like it'd be a hell of a training cycle.
he has an bachelors in econ just like me
Just hitting 5.11s. Need to work on my endurance. Pumped after two routes. Can’t wait to move to a gym in a few months where I don’t have to drive 1.5 hours. Fricking love climbing so much bros.
>1.5 hour drive
>Fricking love climbing so much bros.
Your commitment is insane. Once you're at a gym closer to you, you're gonna fly into the stratosphere. Keep going anon.
>Sent my first 7A on top rope today
Let's fricking gooooo. That's such a huge milestone. You're in the 7's now. Big boy.
it's worth traveling for a good gym. we drive 1.5 hours for a huge gym that i can do work from home in, they also have a spa area which makes it feel like a vacation day once a week.
my gym used to have a Jacuzzi in it but they closed it down 🙁
Too much nonbinary techie sexo 🙁
first climbing gym I went to had a unisex sauna but the second gym I went to regularly had two saunas split by sex
i'm shocked that I never saw any gay shit happening but I DID see a bent-over PAAG in a bikini at the first place (jerked off later that night, love that memory)
Workers got tired of cleaning up the hiv loads
Congrats Anons, what a way to start the year
Sent my first 7A on top rope today. It was a slightly steep indoor rout that was partially in a corner. There was this cheeky bit with a fist jam and a kneebar. I’m flipping happy with that.
Didn't know you could toprope indoor boulder problems. Or did you mean 7a?
I'm actually not sure because the gym I go to uses the same grading system for boulder problems and auto-belay top rope routes. They just mark each problem and route with coloured tape and then each colour corresponds to some range of grades.
>Be you
>redditor
>Durrr, Capital letter means Boulder. Lower case letter means sport route
>Durrr
>Anon isn't using the convention
>Point it out to him
>Unprecedented fame and admiration follows
>anon responds
>O, thank you for correcting me
>You're so insightful and amazing and smart
>Thank you for taking time out of your day to let everyone in this thread know how smart you are
>Back to you
>Oh... it was nothing
Why did you feel the need to say something so moronic like that homosexual? You obviously knew what he meant when he said 7A. homosexuals like you disgust me.
Okay, STOP!!!
What made you think you could just say something this horrible to another person on the internet?!
>be me
>Tragic backstory.jpg
>Once upon a time I was on a forum
>Fhite
>Everyone was so kind and swell
>then... then the incels came
>Insults were thrown
>horrible strangers telling people the most horrible things
>Developed a passion for shitposting
>Eat_shit.exe
Sick of reddit/tards/ trying to correct the most minor details. Think about it, why would that pathetic piece of shit feel the urge to type it? It speaks so much to someone's personality. He feels empty inside. He thinks he's better than you. He wants everyone to know how "Smart" he is, so he's egocentric. He's a sack of shit and you shouldn't defend him. Frick grammar nazis.
You’re fricking crazy, I’m going home.
All good cause I guess this thread's rolling already, but having /cg/ in the title makes it easier to search for the thread, for next OP
Going bouldering outdoors for the first time this winter season, wish me luck boys
ah yeah my bad I forgot the subject line. good luck anon.
I will send a V5 tomorrow.
I will send a V5 tomorrow.
I will send a V5 tomorrow.
>no subject
Been bouldering for 3 weeks. Background of sports/gym so not out of shape.
Getting elbow pain during long sessions or if I got more than once a week. Assuming its some form of tendonitis. Feels like burning in elbows/where the tricep head attaches. Dont want to have to stop. Tips to fix? Annoying getting a long term use injury in something Ive just started.
>Feels like burning in elbows/where the tricep head attaches
It's bicep tendonitis. Two things you can try - chin ups at the end of a session (my preference), or doing light dumbbell curls with 2.5/5lb weights. Do 3 sets of 10 at the end of a session, really focusing on stretching that part of the arm. What you have isn't uncommon, so don't worry.
>Dont want to have to stop
You won't have to stop doing anything. Climbing has this culture of fear-mongering when it comes to minor aches/pains.
>Foot hurts?
>time for a 3 week deload
Dude sometimes shit's just gonna hurt and you deal with it. Even if you left it alone, it'd probably go away on its own. It's just mild inflammation. Once the tendons grow stronger, it'll get used to it. But doing high reps with light dumbbell curls helps stress the tendon in a way that speeds its recovery.
> Annoying getting a long term use injury
It's not an "injury" by any stretch of the imagination, and you could probably muscle through it for the rest of your life and nothing bad would happen. It's just tendonitis. It's chill. Keep climbing. Be weary of anyone who tells you that
>you're overdoing it
>Your body isn't ready for X
>You need to take time off
You literally just started. I've known fricking idiots who climb with multiple pulley injuries without letting them heal, and they end up doing alright. You're going to be fine. Let us know how the recovery goes. My tendonitis took about 2-3 days of light dumbbell curls to go away fully. Now I'm doing chin ups with 50lbs added and I've never had the pain come back.
>pain where the tricep head attaches
>it's bicep tendonitis
LMAO. Don't listen to this tard.
If y'all aren't gonna talk about climbing, then please use the free time you have to go frick yourselves. Imagine having nothing better to do than post in /cg/ but then troll. Once you lose some weight fatties, maybe then you can climb.
That's what your mom said.
>post in /cg/
what the hell is /cg/? we're posting in ~~ Flex Edition ~~
Might be tendonitis, might be tendinopathy. I'd google both of those, compare symptoms, self-diagnose, and start treating it according to instructions. It's probable that the trick is to take it a bit easier but start stressing it gradually. If I were you, I wouldn't stop climbing.
>thread botched because OP forgot to put /cg/ in title
my day is ruined
Yeah yeah I get it I'm an idiot. Next time one of you indignant fricks make the thread.
I saw a gym in Paris yesterday and decided to stop by. I had a great time climbing with randoms and attempting to share beta across the language barrier. Climbing really is a cool hobby. Then I got stuck trying to pull open the push door for several minutes until someone let me out of the building.
Today I'm headed to Chamonix. Welcome to my blog.
>Then I got stuck trying to pull open the push door for several minutes
Now the fricked up OP doesn't surprise me anymore.
Are most climbers unironically moronic?
Anyone use that grip strength tester? What results did you guys get. My highest rn is 131lbs for my right, 130lbs for my left.
christ, climbing becoming an olympic sport was such a mistake
how long to get to 7a? just started climbing
That depends on a lot of things.
for example? for reference I can do 6a, and the limiting factor at the moment seems to be my forearms.
I'm just curious on how much progress I can expect in what timeframe
To name a few, whether you climb inside or outside, how tough the grading in your gym/area is, your starting fitness, how much and how systematically you’re willing to train, how naturally skilled you are, and what sort of people you train with.
If you’ve just started climbing and can climb 6a, your limiting factor is not your forearm strength. The limiting factor is technique, and poor technique is the main reason behind your forearms getting tired.
It might take anywhere from a few months to a few years.
7a as in lead climbing or in bouldering?
just did my first 6c on lead (indoors so it dosent count) can i have a small gz
so excited for spring hoping to do an actual 6c outdoors this year too
good zebra anon
So tried rock-climbing today and was fun, thinking about doing judo at the same time.
Schedule will look like dis:
Mon: judo 20:00-21:30
Tue: Climbing 18:00-20:00
Wed: (I need to get some coloured belt in order to unlock this judo session + do some climbing safety test for r.climb) climbing 17:00-18:00, Judo 18:30-20:00.
How do i create a training program to mesh with this on off days? I have rings, dip station, dbell and curlbar and excercise bike.
You don't. The first year of climbing you just climb as much as you can to get a feel for different styles, holds, surfaces, walls, etc.
Only when you get to V5's, you can google proper warm up and off-the-wall training routines.
awful advice, a huge number of climbing injuries are people who have been doing it for just a few months so proper warmup is always necessary and most people will encounter joint pain if they don't static stretch + do targeted lifts. and you think it's normal for it to take 12 months to reach V5? probably 6 months is average for people who are any bit serious about getting into climbing.
>a huge number of climbing injuries are people who have been doing it for just a few months
Nah.
>proper warmup is always necessary
True.
>most people will encounter joint pain if they don't static stretch + do targeted lifts
Nah.
>probably 6 months is average for people who are any bit serious about getting into climbing
What gym are you climbing at where people reach V5 in 6 months? Outdoors it's an much different story. Never heard of a climber doing higher than V5 outdoors in their first year.
warmup is always necessary
>True.
you said the exact opposite in your last post you fricking moron, ask me how I know you climb V4-
>Seething about your inability to hit lower-intermediate grades in a timespan that isn't years
If you have such little investment in the sport why would you even navigate to and then post in the unlabeled 4cdn.org Fhite climbing thread? If you feel equally compelled to post again please post anything but your embarrassing whines because your previous posts are pure mental illness.
you're combative and weird. next time you wonder why you're a virgin just remember this post you made.
>V5
>probably 6 months is average
Fricking burgers and their soft as shit gyms, I'm closer to consistently doing 6B+ moonboard problems than to 6C problems in my local gyms
not my problem you've learned absolutely zero technique. old bastards hit V3 in under a month all over YouTube, there's no reason why under-30s can't hit V5 in 6 months
Lmao your V8 wouldn't even qualify as V2 in Japan
>V3
Holy frick how shit are you morons at this sport? Far more embarrassing than the regular dick-measuring is admitting you can't climb beginner grades.
what's a "respectable" climbing grade?
intermediate starts at V5
Your V3 is my V0
Your V0 is my 15% grade trucks uses lower gear.
alright I went for a quick little cloomb yesterday and the gym was way too packed
this sport needs to stop being so popular
sent a V4 last climb bros I am very happy. about 3ish months into climbing, usually go twice a week. a bit annoyed I ripped some pinky skin on my last climb, fukin crips
the gym I go to costs $100+ a month for membership and is crowded as hell. Idk how all these people afford it
inflation
100$ is the new 50$
Yeah this bullshit is why I'm saving up for a home wall. $100 a month to have young'uns run underneath me or fricking zoomers and team kids gangbang the only training board. Frick that. I'll just get a garage TB2 and a crack trainer and lift weights at Golds.
>Be you
>Lone, old schizo
>Afraid to ask politely if you can share the board
>Would rather invest years of energy constructing a shitty home wall
>"muh gym is too crowded"
>get a regular gym membership
>bench is currently being used
>"Fricking zoomer shitskins don't know how to let us old folk enjoy life"
>Would rather spend thusands of dollars building a home gym
>based decision built on the most moronic logic
>"muh gym is too crowded"
You haven't climbed more than 3 weeks. Chill.
You’re reading way too much into it. He said his main complaints are: a) high cost of membership b) not getting to climb in peace in a crowded gym. With those problems it’s entirely reasonable to think of constructing a home wall.
What kind of an incompetent are you, anyway, that you’d have to invest years of energy to construct a board? It’s done in an afternoon.
>You're reading too much into it
He literally said
>young'uns run underneath me or fricking zoomers and team kids gangbang the only training board
So he goes at a peak hour one time, who gives a shit. Happened to me yesterday, got kicked off my project even. Still had 4 other projects to work on. The idea that a gym being crowded is a flaw is moronic. Then he said
>I'll just get a garage TB2
That shit starts at $1800, so that's a year and a half of membership for a training board with no variety.
>building a board is done in an afternoon
Then you do it cuck. Why're you paying for a gym membership? Go and watch your youtube tutorials and have a wall climbable by tonight. Do you route set anon?
>wants to save money climbing
>Doesn't climb outside
You and anon are homosexuals.
You're whinging because you're unable to comprehend that not everyone lives in similar circumstances as you or shares your preferences.
We have a tb2 at our gym and it's the breasts man, best board ever. Great hold variety, a mix of good and terrible feet, skin friendly, angle adjustable. If you want to get strong and you can get a tb2 in your house you will 100% not regret it.
Thoughts on kilterboard vs tensionboard vs moonboard?
Tension board is my favorite of the three by quite a margin. I've done all of the v4s, most of the v5s and many v6-v8 on the moon board and I can say that it's a great tool to train power, dynamic movement and contact strength, but it lacks in movement variety beyond that and can be quite injurious due to the aggressive holds coupled with the movement style.
I have limited experience on the kilterboard but from my dozen or so sessions on it, the main take away I found is that the holds are too juggy and similar to each other to allow for a good variety of problem styles, while not being aggressive enough to really shine in what it is supposed to be, that is a powerful movement based board with good hands and good feet. To make problems harder, it's often simply a matter of making the moves bigger and thuggier. It lacks complexity.
The tension board 2 has by far the best hold complexity, ergonomics and variety out of any of these 3 boards. Almost every hold can be used in multiple ways and is shaped in such a way as to not be trivial in the way it is gripped. The feet are varied and are the most outdoor like out of these boards. The tb2 is genuinely comfortable to climb on due to the mixture of wood and plastic holds, and feels less injurious than say the moon board. Throw in adjustable angle and the ability to set the board in 2 completely different ways with the same hold set and you easily have the winner: tb2.
Tb2 >> moonboard (2016 is best) > kilterboard.
>quite
>trivial
>ergonomics
Thanks for the recommendation, I just wish you didn't sound like such a homosexual trying to promote this shit.
No I didn't?
>tfw still working on your first V0+
wagmi.
>Tries sounding smug
>Uses anime girl pfp
Okay homosexual, once you climb at more than one gym chain, come back here. Part of this sport makes is about gyms making climbs easier to get newbie cucks like us to keep coming back with the progression. The other day I literally talked to one of my gym's routesetters who said they were going to make the next batch of V5's and V6's easier so that people could reach them faster. Ask me how I know you've never sent a moonboard problem.
anime website, aspie
I specifically asked you to stop crying and the tears are still streaming.
>you-you're so meaaannnnn ;(
picrel dumbass
Haven't climbed on one yet but I like the og tensionboard way more than the moon and kilter. I hope it's really the best of both worlds.
homosexual, I've been climbing for over a decade. I'm not a pathetic poorgay though, so what's 10k for a home gym? I'm a bitter antisocial who just wants to get in and do a workout and then leave, so a garage wall/tb2 + crack trainer makes a lot of sense for me.
Also, kys
Home climbing gym master race member chiming in here. I have a tension board (original) with the A and B hold set. Still might pick up the C set if I ever have the cash, but the sets that I have are pretty good. If I had lots of money I would get the tension board 2 but that's $10k+ that I don't have. I also built a campus board and a diy power rack with a hang board. If you have the means to build a home gym, do it. You won't regret it. The only kid here is my son and I don't have to deal with any degenerate hippies either. I'll visit a commercial gym every now and then for a little variety, but I will definitely never have a climbing gym membership ever again.
Sweet thanks anons. The TB2 is the dream but I also want a nice weightlifting setup and that's pretty expensive too. I'm thinking I'll end up with a TB1 fixed at 45 with sets A&B, using that as the backbone, and buying more fun random holds and eventually turning it into more of a spray wall. Also definitely going to build an adjustable crack trainer.
Is it worth it to save another 2-3 months and get the LEDs or should I spend my money elsewhere?
You can build your own TB2. They provide you the specifications. Just save your money for their holds
Uhh, yes. Who has someone build the wall for them? Everyone just buys the holds but the Tb2 holds are expensive as frick compared to other options.
Tension doesn't sell walls, they sell holds and LED kits for you to put on your own wall.
Never mind, I just looked at their website, they sell walls too.
>tensionboard
>board
>doesn’t sell walls
Stop eating your chalk anon
Before you get too high off of huffing your own farts, it looks like they are a dealer for the everactive wall. The "tension board" is the product that Tension produces, which is still just the hold and light sets. Almost every tension board that you can find a picture of is a diy job.
Yeah I mean it's not a complicated build. get 3 fullsize 3/4" plywood sheets and build frame from 2x8 or 2x10s and add a small kicker and you're done. You'd have to be a moron to struggle to build that.
I have the LED kit, I've never tried it without the lights. If money is an issue just get the holds. You can use them with or without the lights, with or without the app. The lights are pretty nice though.
Fricking nice bro. Now get to V5.
Why do you need an empty gym to cloomb?
Weekends are filled with kids and weeknights are flooded with students I can't clooooooomb...
>Weekends are filled with kids
doesn't sound that bad
>he hasn't learned how to make room by walking assertively up to route and staring other people down
this is what I do, it helps to be one of the 3 guys in the gym over 6'1"
seriously why is every climber like 5'7"
the taller the man the more basic his interests usually are. I call this Manlet's Law.
Behold! Zoomer Atlas!
Been climbing like 4 months and I most enjoy doing overhangs but by golly do they FRICK my hands up. How do I solve this bros? I tried sanding my calluses which stopped them peeling off today but I still have like swollen almost bubbled calluses on every finger. Could barely climb even after just a few overhang attempts.
Tape up when your fingers start feeling like they're cooking under the skin. Ideally a bit before that point.
>but I have no friction when I have tape on my fingers this sucks
Yes it does.
Cut them all off. I use nail clippers for this. But you can do it with whatever. Disinfect whatever you are using beforehand. If there's a liquid inside it, disinfect the wound and sand down the edges. Use hand cream. If you feel like your skin is gonna tear off during climbing, just tape it. At this point in your climbing journey, tape really doesn't make that much difference to what you can climb.
Good technique and accurate hand placement can help. It's not pressure that creates calluses, it's friction - when your fingers shift on a hold as you place them down or lift then up, when you readjust to avoid falling (especially when you readjust with a lot of force going through the fingers during the adjustment), when your hand twists as part of or in preparation for a dyno. Obviously some of this is unavoidable but do what you can.
Moonboard or Kilterboard, which one ist harder?
Which one is more fun?
Weighted pull-ups.
I kneel
I did the ice climbing. I booked a guide for "beginner ice climbing" expecting like 1hr of instruction and 2hr of single-pitch climbing on an artificial ice wall. The day before our trip the guide gives me the gear list and tells me we'll be doing a 5-pitch ice route in the mountains with a 2hr approach. We were pushing hard to be the first ones on the route and I'm in awful shape so the approach was absolute misery. When we got to the base he just handed me a munter and hopped on the route. Zero instruction. The grade was AI4-5, if that means anything.
We were rushed the entire time by another group on our tail. I probably rained down 20lbs of ice on their heads with all the hacking. The actual climbing was bewildering, but started to get fun towards the end. By that time my calves were in agony and I felt about to vomit, so I wouldn't say there was any pure enjoyment to the trip. The setting was extraordinary though.
I don't know if I'll ever do it again. Regular rock seems like a lot more fun.
That sounds like both a pain in the ass and an unforgettable experience. Ice-climbing is so niche that it's just not worth it unless you live in that sort of area. Even so, don't discount it just because the first time was a bit weird.
>When we got to the base he just handed me a munter and hopped on the route. Zero instruction.
>I don't know if I'll ever do it again. Regular rock seems like a lot more fun.
its funny you say that, because the picture in your first post is the first thing that has ever made me sort of interested in ice. super fricking cool looking.
holy shit guys theres more to life than grade chasing
Your gym's V6 is my gym's V2. That means that I'm actually better than you. Also, I climb in ASIA, mind you.
fricking hell, how did the quality of this thread decline so massively in the last week? is it just one single autist?
OP fricked up the thread so it all devolved into trolling and shitposting. And I guess it's mostly one or two guys, yeah
I blame the greentexting fitgay.
>morning anons
>wonderful day to climb
>currently working on my V0 (V13 at your gym)
>lifes good.exe
What's the consensus about what a respectable climbing grade is? My friends say V6-V7, most Fhiteizens think V2, and you anon think V3 at your gym
8A
Seems legit
Makes sense. What's an "impressive" climbing grade to you?
holy frick you spergs are so moronic that you're replying to a mocking question in earnest. you were asked 30 posts up to do literally anything but cry about grades and here we are, plzkysasaptysm.
>plzkysasaptysm
Gesundheit
Tell you one thing, and I'm not ashamed to say it. My estimation of this thread as a climbing general just fricking plummeted.
The Fhite thread needs to come back. I'll try to find the time to do it in the next week or so.
Right now I'm about to climb this 3c in the wind and rain and have a great time. I hope.
/cb/ threads in xs are becoming worse by the day, nowadays the average poster "climbs" only indoor on plastic holds on routes with hugely inflated grades.
This used to be a niche sport, now that normies have infiltrated things are going down the shitter.
>Back in the old days...
>Muh sport is being ruined
>You nasty kids don't know what you're climbing
stfu and keep climbing v2's/5.9 outdoors you trad stoned homosexual hippy.
>tfw you move towns for a job and now the nearest outdoor crag is 3 hours away and only climbable for 3 months out of the year
I want to die.
I think it's to filter people from the sport. With gyms being naturally harder, it selects those who're actually talented or interested in training to get past the rookie grades. I've heard japanese gym routes being compared to milestones on moonboard climbs, and it doesn't surprise me. I actually prefer gyms being as sandbagged and hard as fricking possible, it means that I'm actually progressing. I like how the V4's at my home gym are harder than the V5's/V6's at other gyms. I honestly with it was more sandbagged. But there's also an interesting aspect of climbing at my homegym - climbers who've spent their time here for a year end up climbing way harder (and outside more) than those at other gyms nearby. We're talking a solid 2 grade difference. The same probably holds true in japan - by forcing everyone to actively hone and perfect their technique and strength, it ends up rewarding those who stick to it.
I don’t think sandbagging is any better than inflating. The point of universal grading systems is to give people at least some kind of a notion of the difficulty of a climb. If the grades don’t represent difficulty, especially if they’re intentionally being skewed, then they should be removed altogether.
Removing grading systems altogether is just stupid. Even if they're inaccurate globally, locally they're incredibly useful. Plus, since Euro-tards established the world's most difficult climbs, all grading systems converge to that scale. Only at the beginning of the scale do grades vary wildly.
Grade chasing is the only reason I climb. Seethe. Cope. Die.
Did my first weighted pullups today and i yelped on the last rep like a woman.
Also why arent you doing weighted pullups anon? Dont know how to use a loading pin?
normalgays would benefit greatly from color systems rather some autistic "real" grade.
While it being consistent globally would be great, it's still valuable locally. As long as it is consistent in the gym, it's alright. But it is useless to compare indoor grades across the world.
One of the gym I go to has an interesting system, where the routesetter will grade their climb. But for like 2 weeks after it is set, there's a paper tag where you can vote for what grade you think it is and if the consensus is different, they will change the official grade. You'd think most people would inflate it just to ego boost. But most of the time they downgrade it. Maybe it has something to do with it being a lead climbing gym. I've only seen people dick measure with bouldering grades. Now that I'm thinking about it I really wonder why boulderers are so insecure about grades. Especially indoor boulderers.
I suppose you’re right.
I reckon climbers in general are insecure about grades because they equate some amount of self worth with how hard they climb and they have trouble separating the notion that grades are just a tool rather than the climb itself. Lots of climbers have trouble enjoying climbing for its own sake and need some kind of metric attached to climbing to make it enjoyable to them. I think that's moronic, climbing is fun regardless of the grade.
Some guy literally told me to kill myself because I don't climb as hard as him. If I climb harder, than later in life I'll be able to tell gays like you to have a nice day. Good motivation, huh.
>But I think it's important to stay focused on the goal,
My goal - be better than other people. Be stronger than other people. Do shit other people can't. Without other people as a metric, sport becomes a meaningless enterprise. We are all relative.
>Imagine climbing a route in a beautiful setting with engaging and flowing movements
Fool. The best, most beautiful routes in the world are usually the most difficult. Most "easy" routes are taken up by homosexuals who have loving families with people who love them and cheering them on, which distracts from the burning silence and pain in my soul that drives me to become better.
Basically - climb harder -> Send cool shit -> Post instagram videos -> People like those/share those -> They say "I wish I could climb that hard" -> Self worth achieved.
Nearest crag is 3 hours away, snowed in for 9 months out of the year. Do I want to kms? Yes. But until I do, my goal is being stronger than you.
You are insecure as frick and obviously not a very happy person.
I hope you can learn that your biggest enemy will always be yourself. Then you can start working on becoming better and beating your past self. That's the journey to happiness. good luck.
Youre not wrong.
>My goal - be better than other people. Be stronger than other people. Do shit other people can't. Without other people as a metric, sport becomes a meaningless enterprise. We are all relative.
Anon, I mean well, but you really need to address the root of your self-esteem and self-worth issues. I've been there. I felt the same way, that I wouldnt be and didn't deserve to be happy or satisfied with my climbing until I climbed harder than two standard deviations (95%) of all other climbers.
You're not gonna be fulfilled by climbing an 8A. Learn to love yourself and maybe then climb an 8A anyway just because you really love climbing.
I posted this mainly as a joke with semblances of truth. Did not expect to get the wholesome replies I did.
Based.
I am slightly wrong.
Thank you anon. Btw, did you actually make it to 8A?
>gays like you
You're a caricature of the people you claim to dislike and won't amount to much more than them. Good luck with your superiority complex rooted in your very real and very obvious inferiority.
I still stiff v4 and v5+ are where climbers have to start using their problem solving and route reading skills in collaboration with their climbing power. At least in my gym it's where climbers get filtered.
I agree with
I'm a fatty climbing 7A max. and will never reach 8A.
That's where real climbing begins
>will never reach 8A
Not with that attitude.
>That's where real climbing begins
I feel like 5.13a+ is where routes start to get that "epic feeling". Isn't that the point where you're climbing hard enough that nobody will overcrowd your routes?
>What's the consensus about what a respectable climbing grade is?
the only correct answer is onsighting 7b s
bouldering 3 weeks now and i hit my first v3 flash in a gym that's graded pretty tough, and then hit another one right after
pretty happy
i also dislike sitting starts with crimps, they go into an overhang with a heel hook + mantle that's a lot of fun
since you gays shitpost about grades I met an austrian (or german?) guy a few days ago that said indoor bouldering grades in his country are harder than outdoors.
he talked about grades around 7C-8A
is that actually true?
met some german girl who allegedly did V7s that got mogged by japanese gym V4s
Why are gyms in Japan so sandbagged?
I think they do a better job of differentiating the lower grades, a lot of western gyms have VB to V4 basically indistinguishable so the nippon v2s seem more sandbagged. Their walls are also all zero texture and pretty short so they have wackier start positions
Japanese bouldering gyms are all one floor in a normal building or a cramped basement instead of the enormous warehouses western gyms end up in. There's no room for tall overhung walls or space hungry dynos so they have to make things hard by having tricky body positions and shit holds. I figure they seem more sandbagged to westerners who go there because they're testing a different set of skills. I'd be curious to hear what Japanese climbers visiting the west say about our gyms.
I understand wanting to get stronger at climbing so that you can climb cooler stuff. But I think it's important to stay focused on the goal, and not get lost in chasing grades.
Imagine climbing a route in a beautiful setting with engaging and flowing movements, and then looking up the grade in a guidebook to determine how good you should feel about the experience. Surely the real value of a route is in the joy of climbing it.
Grade chasers rarely climb outside
if i dont have an ascender of any type should i get a jug ascender or a microtrax as my first one? will be using it for climbing ropes along with a grigri mostly but the microtrax might be nice to have
If it's just for rope ascension the jug will be way more comfortable and efficient than the microtrax, especially on longer routes.
But the microtrax is way more versatile (you can use it for hauling, rescues, simul-climbing, etc...).
Try to ascend a rope with prusiks, and see how it feels. If you're doing and feeling fine, the microtrax will be enough, but if it's too hard, go for a jumar.
thanks, seems like i will need both in the future so i will just get a jug ascender now because its slightly cheaper, probably wont do any hauling or simul-climbing for a couple of years anyways
>Try to ascend a rope with prusiks
this is how i've been doing it up until now with two prusiks, its just painfully slow so im looking for an upgrade
Also, I have had my home gym setup at 2 different homes; the first place I had my tension board up I had a fully adjustable angle. My current place has a fixed angle of 40 degrees. Fixed angle is superior if you're actually going to commit to building a home wall.
Why tf does everyone say that Skwama are soft?? They feel like fricking wooden boards.
Theory and Mantra are actually soft
>guy wearing a Female Body Inspector shirt and who climbs v3 at best impressed the qt3.14 I'e been trying to make laugh for weeks by climbing to the top of the bouldering section and going, "damn, look at that view!"
what he got that I don't
Confidence and charisma
pheromones. stop showering moron
Bros when you smear are you meant to weight the balls of your foot or your toe?
Toe and toe base push that into the smear. Its like a sloper with your hand but for your foot kinda.
one trick I hardly ever hear about regarding smears is to drop your heel as much as you can. you will get more shoe rubber on whatever you're smearing and you'll feel more tension in your foot. if you watch pros climbing smeary stuff like world cup slabs or outdoor friction slab you'll see them do this a lot. try it out.
Speaking of joint pain, I am a V1 beginner, started like 3 weeks ago. I was trying to do twice a week but by arms don't seem to be able to take for long it if I do any route that isn't a literal ladder.
What is a proper warm up routine? And is it normal that your arm hurts so much you can't do twice a week at the start? First day my hands were the bottleneck but by the third my arm became the issue. Should go for the fifth time next saturday,
Note I am 34 and I also work out (tho having to skip days because of said pain, it does go away at least)
I'm assuming you're talking about forearms. Regardless, your arms, at their CURRENT STRENGTH, will last you twice as long (or longer) if you really focus on a couple things:
1) keep your arms fully extended while you climb, when you can. straight arms are happy arms, but optimal body positioning on the wall won't always allow this, which is why the next point is super important:
2) climb faster. if you've already thought through the moves before getting on the wall, you should be able to go from hold to hold with no more than a second pause between each, and when you get more experience, a third of a second or less. your goal isn't to "speed climb", but to be "flowing" at a comfortable climbing speed and to cut down on time spent between moves.
>proper warmup
get your heart beating (2 minutes of running or jumping jacks etc.) and then just move all the parts of your body. rotate everything from your ankles to your neck, and don't forget shoulder shrugs, hip circles, wrist circles etc. follow this by a few easy climbs (VB / V0s that are easy for you) and you're all warmed up.
>but what do I do when my arms are already hurting?
shake them. if you've ever seen someone hang from a bar for 7+ minutes they'll repeatedly take one hand off the bar to shake out that arm, and then switch. this gets lactic acid out and brings in oxygenated blood.
keep crushing brother
I almost feel like it's the joint itself and not the forearm, as in, it's very close to it, and it's only my right arm
As for speed, yeah, I think a lot when climbing even if I know the route. And I need that thinking and time often, unless it's a very trivial move I can't really quickly go from one to the other. And I also really hate how wildly different routes of the same supposed grade are in my gym. They group out grades so I don't even properly know if it's a "V0" or a "V1" and like 2 of them are so clearly much harder than every other that ehh, but I digress, kinda wish that was clearer tho.
Speaking of that, is it the "normal" behavior to try and fully clear a grade before moving to the next? Because I'm pretty sure some of the V2s are easier than some of these V1s, haven't actually tried one so I could be wrong .
The arm stuff sounds normal for just starting out. Make sure you're strengthening the pushing muscles as well as the pulling ones. You can just do pushups - do them on your knuckles so you have to keep your wrist stable too.
As for grades try stuff that looks doable and you'll either learn that it is or why it's hard. Try stuff that doesn't look doable just to see how it feels. That's valuable information. I wouldn't worry about clearing a grade if there's something that looks more fun/interesting/challenging to try.
>to try and fully clear a grade before moving to the next?
definitely DON'T do this
You are grip training outside of climbing, RIGHT?
Oof
Someone take his belay card!
This guy is just suicidal right
That's what I thought, turns out he just forgot to clip in, not that uncommon apparently. He is alive though, not sure about well but alive.
I wish my gym has such great padding that I could jump off from that height.
Are there any wide toed shoes that don't have frickhuge heels? I've got scarpa veloces at the moment and the front is great but I basically fall out of the shoes every time I heelhook
Same problem, LS Skwama work for me but they're concrete blocks compared to Veloce.
LS Mantra maybe, but they're not that wide and have a more classic/egyptian form
evolv phantoms. wide forefoot, narrow heel. my favorite bouldering shoe by far, feels like a LS solution with a smaller heel. mad rock drones are similar but narrower in the forefoot with a heel that is either the best in the business or unusable depending on your anatomy.
are other evolv shoes similar profile? i was thinking of trying out the zenists to see if they fit wide feet better
not sure about the others except evolv shamans are basically stiffer phantoms. but do give evolv a try if you're wide up front and narrow in the heel.
really stupid question but the atc-guide is rated for minimum 8.1mm double ropes, will i die if i use it for 8mm double ropes? should i sell it and get a reverso instead?
i've been climbing since jan 6th in an apparently really hard rated gym and cleared my first v4 wednesday and flashed it, and cleared my first v5(a ton of attempts) right after
im really looking forward to capping out at the gym but also dreading it, like what happens when I hit v10 am i just stuck climbing v10s in a gym since i don't travel
also when am i considered talented, i keep being asked if i'm going to compete in the novice bouldering comp coming up, but it's v0-v3
the difference between v5 and v10 is huge, you'll find out in time. don't worry about it, you have a ways to go before you're flashing your entire gym. also, you really should go outside. as far as being talented is concerned, try your hand at some comps if that's your thing but don't be surprised if you meet some dude who has been climbing the same time as you who warms up on your projects. I know a dude who climbed v11 outdoors in his first year of climbing. look up the history of chris sharma if you want an obvious example of real raw talent. god speed anon.
>in an apparently really hard rated gym
doubt.jpg
awful bait kys
holy frick this entire thread is horrendous
>holy frick this entire thread is horrendous
yeah thanks to op being a fricking moron
>leave Paris to me
Who?
A praying mantis with down syndrome
Which one of you morons is using pictures of black dudes to defend rock climbing in Fhite?
link
Fhite is so fricking gay
Why does this guy always look like such a gigantic nerd? Was he really a good climber?
>free soloer
>good
at least these attention whoring shitters usually reap what they sow
>Was he really a good climber?
He was fantastic. The nose is 2:20 is basically superhuman.
https://www.climbing.com/news/brad-gobright-and-jim-reynolds-set-new-nose-speed-record/
Everyone I know who free solos does it to improve their mental fortitude and/or for fun. Of course there is an aspect of wanting recognition, that is an inescapable part of being human. But I think you would agree that anyone who free solos for recognition alone would quit doing it very early into their career, being that its inherently terrifying. There are obviously much deeper reasons than that. If you're not a teenager then you certainly act like one. Have some respect for the dead, dude.
damn I thought my first post got deleted. anyways i hope you can appreciate how i wanted to adjust my tone
>Was he really a good climber?
He was fantastic. The nose is 2:20 in basically superhuman.
https://www.climbing.com/news/brad-gobright-and-jim-reynolds-set-new-nose-speed-record/
Everyone I know who free solos does it to improve their mental fortitude and/or for fun. Of course there is an aspect of wanting recognition, that is an inescapable part of being human. But I think you would agree that anyone who free solos for recognition alone would quit doing it very early into their career. If you free solo for attention instead of deeper reasons, the fear will overwhelm you and you'll never do it again.
In the Reel Rock about Alex & Tommy's Nose Record he came across as a massive autist.
>Why does this guy always look like such a gigantic nerd?
probably because he was
>Was he really a good climber?
i guess. Alex Honnold thinks so
at the same time, he died in an avoidable rappelling accident, which is not very respectable to me
>died doing what he loved
Could not be a better way to die
>if I went gay I'd bottom
Not surprised frankly.
>at the same time, he died in an avoidable rappelling accident, which is not very respectable to me
I remember Hannold saying that every free solo climber death happened doing something other than free soloing. No sure if that's still true.
didn't Bachar die free soloing?
Bachar supposedly died due to a rock fall, so the rope wouldn't make a difference. for others see
Crazy beautiful views but I was on edge the entire climb. I will never ever come even close to attempting anything this bold.
Colin Haley is a monster. Looking forward to watching this later.
watching old nalle videos, what a guy
>climbs hardest and most aesthetic boulders
>does silbergeier after a month of endurance training on 5 move burden of dreams
>does first 9A and then fricks off from social media
He just really likes climbing.
He’s a great fella. Speaking of him, this little video popped up in my recommendations recently.
?si=qOkYX44IP7k_wywO
great vid, love some of the foot sequences on that going back and forth from toe to heel
It really is a beautiful line. Love the diagonal crack-like feature.
Hit a hard plateau
What do?
traing ahrder
Climb for fun.
Read this: https://www.amazon.com/Training-Guide-Climbers-Platinum-Principles/dp/B0C6VWRGCW/ref=sr_1_1?tag=ganker-20&crid=1GCBRNHBLBMNT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.twMiBfoVpwqChpl25xiDR8oFWuVgjavdz7KbiPWQle8.yD-Cp2WXdUneFjKp-aI2EDl7iLWyKwLvCYpbQhzc9sI&dib_tag=se&keywords=platinum+principles+for+climbing&qid=1708223372&sprefix=platinum+principles+for+climbing%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-1
If you hit a plateau, 99% of the time it's one of these two things:
1) - You're not resting long enough between climbing days. You're under-recovered. If you climb hard, only train 3-4 days a week, and always get a full rest day between sessions. Light days can help recovery.
2) - You're not getting outside your comfort zone. Are you actually trying hard routes frequently enough, or do you give up after 2-3 attempts? Climbing harder requires the patience to fall off a route 30+ times before getting a send. Most climbers get comfy climbing their flash grade and rarely set foot on new terrain. It's a rewarding process.
Found the most amazing pic of Dean Potter tucked away on some random instagram account (wish I could find the post again).
Figured I would share it as its not anywhere else on the web. I look at this photo for inspiration before doing something bold.
>guy warms up with a bokken and bo staff
>for climbing
Doing shoulder dislocations or actual 'shadow sparring'??
Swinging it around like an actual weapon
Lmao hope he doesn't injure anyone.
Also is staff fighting even a good warm up for climbing?
I guess it's better than doing nothing. It gets the blood flowing. Depending on the dude's level of larping, he might get some dynamic arm swinging in, so that could help with blood flow. It's about as reasonable as cosplaying as a furry and pretending to guard your eggs against other climbers for 45 mins before doing your first boulder, but eh to each their own.
Gym staff caught me eating chalk out of another climber’s bag again…last warning
A good tip not to get caught is to place your own chalk bag next to theirs so they don't really see whose bag it's from.
Kek at all the numales whinging in mountainproject that gyms NEED music because numale climbers these days can’t experience silence while climbing and need mediocre music blasting overhead
gyms need music just to cover up the sound of everyone grunting
Why cover up all that raw sexual energy?
because for some reason they allow kids into the interracial breeding grounds
dubs and i waste my money on one of those stupid offwidth cams
just get two smaller cams and wedge them together
It's not a waste of money if you're actually going to do some off-widthing.
i know what route i'd use it on but its the only offwidth crack in my entire local area so maybe its not the best use of money, the route itself looks so fun but maybe i will just run out the offwidth part instead since its about 3m, guaranteed ground fall there though
Well, if you think about it, even if the probability of wienering up there is small, is ~80 € a large price to pay to eliminate that possibility and remove the potential for serious injury?
Today I went bouldering with my dad, as I typically do on tuesdays. Today was different, I made a lot of progress.
Should I try belaying?
Sir you appear to have asked a climbing related question on ~flex edition~.
Yes, learn to belay.
i just tried aid climbing an overhang with just slings for footloops that fricking sucked !!!!!!! even worse i nearly got a cam sling cut and i damaged the gate on a biner, luckily it was a super cheap one..
saw reel rock 18 last night, the first flick was with matty hongs groomed squeeze angie getting over her anxiety about dws, then a show about this crusher alpinists getting their last few summits now that they are dads, then a flick about sachi amma going from 3 time champ to trad climbing purist, then a flick about the the ukraine climbing scene in todays conflict. pretty good films, i'd rent to watch again
Bosi sent Return of the Sleepwalker 9A.
So him and Simon Lorenzi are currently the only ones with three 9A's (Soudain Seul isn't confirmed downgraded yet).
Apparently he's going to start working on Megatron in spring.
Can definitely see the first proposed 9A+ being done in the next few years.
He's also close to sending his Terranova project, which will almost certainly be 9A
>sending
>project
Don't wojak me you cretin.
Bros I have like a 2 inch vertical jump how do I do meme dynos..
i think it would be fun if we had a movie night on cytube this weekend, most of the old climbing movies are on youtube too so it would be easy to set up if anyone else is interested
Anyone have tips on focusing on a hard move on a project? Been working on it for about 4-5 sessions now and I'm making progress but I've been stuck for the last 2 sessions on working the crux which is this really fricking weird move combination that my arms either give out on or my foot placement isn't perfect so I slip off.
Do I kill myself?
Ideally you could watch somebody else on it. Try recording yourself.
I did watch someone else do it. One friend got through the crux but couldn't do the boulder from start to finish, another friend just did it after 3 attempts. I'll record it next time with myself on it.
The only difference I've noticed is that every time I attempt it, the first couple of attempts feel easier, less stressful on my forearms, but then I quickly fatigue.
if at first you don't succeed, try, try again!
Frick you Im gonna kms my life is hot fricking garbage I can't even do shit with my life what the actual frick do you want from me you fricking prick, I fricking tried 10 times god damnit what more do you want my body just isn't built for this stupid fricking sport I'm a fricking worthless human being I can't even do shit
>Frick you Im gonna kms
Ok, hope you have fun
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
you've misread:
>Do I kill myself?
>if at first you don't succeed, try, try again!
lmao I was trying to be nice sorry I triggered your suicidal ideation again
Don't worry about it, just going through the motion of the ocean. You gave really good advice. Anyone else hate slab?
slab is great outdoors but sucks ass indoors
i like slab. it allows me to take advantage of my non-/fit/, alien body type
exposure. when i struggled with the fear of heights at the beginning, i looked up the proper falling technique and i forced myself to jump down from every boulder top. i got used to it.
for the grip, you can try measuring your strength in comfortable conditions and then transfer it to your climbing. like if you can hang from a hold 10cm above ground, then you should be alright with a similar hold 2m above ground
I have no fear of heights but I'm still afraid to fall while bouldering because I dislocated my knee multiple times (never while bouldering though, just taking a wrong step randomly). Like I have zero issue falling on lead, no fear whatsoever, but I still only ever do boulders well below my onsight grade and downclimb everything. Any idea what I can do?
ngl if you have past injuries then you're just being smart by avoiding falls
future you will thank you for not giving yourself a knee or hip injury from jumping off every boulder from the top
still would like to do hard boulders and that inevitably involves falling
why did I have to be born with silly string for ligaments
Don't listen to
Falls are unavodiable sometimes. The trick is to learn to mitigate them when they happen. Obviously you're not a moron and know how to downclimb when possible, so what other factor can you control? Strength. You should do a squat routine to strengthen your knees. Knees that can squat 250lbs for reps are going to get injured FAR less often than knees that can't squat 225lbs even once. Look up any beginner protocol, like Madcow 5x5 or Starting Strength or 5,3,1. Your future self will thank you for not being a pussy for skipping leg day and getting stronger knees.
kneesovertoes on youtube
unironic good advice, you can't directly strengthen your knees but you can indirectly strengthen them to great result
Slab is better than going home because your skin is cooked.
Wrong
>go home and live to climb another day
or
>climb slab and literally die by getting cheese grater'd to death
pick wisely
Hey ~~ Flex Edition ~~, do you have any good ressources on conditioning for alpinism?
I used to strength train + cardio (running + cycling), which was enough for hikes and scrambles. I completely switch to cardio (running and road cycling) and climbing + prehab, as I don't care at all about bodybuilding.
I just need pointers to optimize my training and the balance between these two antagonistic activities. I'm currently running a periodized program but I think there is a lot of room for improvement.
My aim is to be physically comfortable climbing TD- routes.
Chances are people here don’t know much about alpinism, my friend, I for sure don’t. I’ll tell you my opinion anyway.
We did a lot of quite fast paced long distance walking while carrying heavy equipment in the military. After my conscription ended, I felt like my stamina and carrying strength both had improved significantly when I went hiking in the mountains. So yeah, doing that sort of stuff might be worthwile, but if you do it, be careful not to frick up the bones in your feet, they get pretty stressed doing that.
mori-sama does it again
I don't understand why lead and boulder aren't separated in the olympics. With this config it's fairly sure that Garnbret will win, no? Well, what are you gonna do. At least it's far better than having boulder and lead lumped up with speed, whatever happened there.
You have to request the amount of medals at the IOC. If your request is not granted you're SOL. IE if they requested the ideal (Boulder/Lead/Speed separate + Boulder+Lead combined) after Tokyo and it wasn't granted, they'd be stuck with 1 medal.
The idea I think is to request 3 medals for 2028. Idk if combined is going to stay then, but I think combined lead+boulder still has value in competition.
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks.
I just think it'd be more interesting to watch a tighter competition.
Garnbret deserves to win
Hello I'm a beginner at bouldering, how do I get over my fear of heights and my low confidence in my grip
You're the one posting on Fhite. Okay, they already answered your questions on that thread. Please stop making new posts. If you want climbing advice, read this book
just watch like 10 hours worth of magnus midtbo videos on 2x speed and you'll figure it out
Keep going grip strength comes with time like any muscle
its dangeris 2 chimney alone,,,, here take zhis:-DDDd
What and incredibly tiny man.
these are coming in on thursday. what am i in for? i can't find a single review other than from the japs who helped design it
unparallel is run by the crew from 5.10 from before the adidas takeover. 5.10 shoes were universally loved and were considered some of the best in the biz. they're gonna be fine.
they came. they are extremely tight, very aggressive. can't walk in them whatsoever. i love them.
For me, it’s weighted pull-ups and pushups ‘till failure on off-days
Guys, I just did ring dips. My life is so much better. Why isn't everyone doing these?
While we're on the topic of shoes, I recently tried some shaman pros at a demo day and enjoyed them. Can any anons who've had them for a while comment on their long term performance? I'd be switching from Instinct VSs (good toe fit but slightly too much heel dead space).
my evolv phantoms (basically a bit softer shaman) is my favorite bouldering shoe of all time. best fit for my wide forefoot/narrow heel, great at edging, heel hooks like mad, comfy
do you guys think it would be stupid to buy my own crashpads when i can loan them out for free from my gym?
Do you want to be beholden to your gym to go climbing? How much stock do they have? If it is “so much that I never have to worry about them being checked out” then yeah, but if there is a chance that they may be out, I’d invest in one, so you only have rent 1
Any reccomendations for softer shoes for indoor bouldering?
Still a beginner climbing V2 but I would like to try new shoes, currently using Tarantulace.
>Be me
>Moved to midwest
>No rocks
>Become indoor climber
>Go to gym with garage setting
>all boulders are on 45 degree angle
>Crimp/pocket central
>Struggle to get up V3
>Seriously project V4
Why are gyms like this? I miss the days where indoor gyms had nice routesetting that didn't rely on you brute forcing your way up a shitty climb with no footholds and all pockets. It felt like a shittier version of moonboarding.
Turantulaces will get you to V4-V5 indoors. I'm so glad they were my second pair (my first were aggressive as frick). To this day I try to avoid aggressive shoes. Moderate pairs allow you to smear without crippling agony.
>moves to a place where the gym only has 45° walls
>"WHY ARE ALL GYMS IN THE WHOLE COUNTRY LIKE THIS WHERE ARE MY COORDINATION DYNORINOOS AAAAAA"
Are you really this moronic? And what kind of setting do you want on a 45° wall? You can only set powerful climbs on that. Have you tried asking the gym owner if you can set some climbs? That way you can make them how you like them.
>Reads a random post on Fhite
>assumes they're generalizing to the entire fricking country
>Are you really this moronic?
First of all, anyone who's into climbing is moronic. So we're both in that boat pal.
>And what kind of setting do you want on a 45° wall?
Descent footholds or some variety. It's not impossible to set juggy holds on an incline. Why is it only crimps and pockets? Plus - whose idea was it to make an entire bouldering section have a 45 degree angle? Weird choice.
Well what "gyms" were you taking about? Are they with us in the room right now? Also, yea sure it's not hard to set some jugs. Maybe the people that climb there just don't care about juggy climbs. You should make your interest clear. It sounds like a small old school gym. They might listen to you and set something you like.
>Plus - whose idea was it to make an entire bouldering section have a 45 degree angle? Weird choice
It's meant to emulate hard bouldering outdoors where most holds are crimps and pockets.
>Well what "gyms" were you taking about?
Gyms like this which are crimp fests. I've climbed at some modern gyms that have difficult routes that aren't crimp ladders all the way up. Moves that have pretty decent pinches, but shitty footholds or compromised positions, or a kneebar/toehook to keep you on the wall. I'm looking for something creative or challenging.
Plus I'm not even entirely opposed to this sort of route setting. I plan to return because there are days where I like being challenged and humbled like that. Doesn't mean the routesetting isn't shitty, just useful for training.
>It sounds like a small old school gym. They might listen to you and set something you like.
Honestly, I might. The staff are all super chill, so I'm sure they wouldn't mind being given recommendations.
>It's meant to emulate hard bouldering outdoors where most holds are crimps and pockets.
Fair enough. But I don't think outdoor climbs are all 45 degree angles going 15 feet upwards with nothing but crimps (though there's definitely crimpy boulders I've been on). Because they have the ability to be creative in their routesetting, it feels lazy to me that they don't really put creative movement options.
>Turantulaces will get you to V4-V5 indoors. I'm so glad they were my second pair (my first were aggressive as frick). To this day I try to avoid aggressive shoes. Moderate pairs allow you to smear without crippling agony.
I don't doubt that they will, I just want to see what softer shoes are like to see if I would like them more, still going with a moderate shoe over an aggressive one.
Thanks
filtered
Scarpa Veloce
what do climbers eat?
>failing on a V5 slab over and over because of a tiny hemispherical foothold that I slip off of most attempts
ok, so how much of this is my fault and how much of this is the fault of my really old beginner shoes?
Entirely your fault.
Is doing this one movement supposed to be really fricking hard??
I mean, of course not, this is a V2/3 but I cannot do this shit without trying 10+ times and then can't do the rest because it basically fricked me up just there already.
I don't think you should have your left foot that high on the starting hold for that big move, maybe keep your left foot on one of those lower holds and just do a big dynamic reach with your right arm to catch that higher hold. Is there another red hold on the other side of that volume?
My foot isn't actually like that, I am shit at drawing. I am placing my heel there, after someone else told me that was the smart way. Before that I was trying with the foot on the one right below.
No, there are no other holds, these on the picture are all available ones.
Bros I'm losing my mind. I've been trying to build endurance for past 2 months and nothing is helping. I can send 7a boulders consistently but I get pumped out on 6a if it's just slightly overhung. It's depressing at this point. Need some tips for training endurance.
I meant 6a sport routes, not boulders.
>Wants endurance
>Boulders
Okay I think I found your problem. Have you looked into ARC training? Basically just try and sport climb/top rope shit near your limit and stay as close as possible to being pumped without getting fully pumped. Repeat this for awhile. Bouldering will NOT give you endurance for sport routes at all. Bouldering is entirely anaerobic.
>Is doing this one movement supposed to be really fricking hard??
If you're not used to it, yeah. Good on you for challenging yourself. It's what's going to make you a better climber.
>I mean, of course not, this is a V2/3
Don't fixate on grades. Context matters. Is this a style you're used to? Maybe it's sandbagged. Maybe it's meant for a taller/shorter climber, who cares. But don't let a single route of a grade be your bench mark. There's V3 slabs at my gym that're harder than the V5 overhangs I do, but that's bc I suck at slab climbing.
>but I cannot do this shit without trying 10+
Sounds like a good project to me. Are you resting long enough between attempts? Try resting for longer and see if that helps. I usually do 3-4 minute waits between really hard boulder attempts, and it lets me get quality attempts each time.
>Is this a style you're used to? Maybe it's sandbagged. Maybe it's meant for a taller/shorter climber, who cares.
I climb for like 2 months, I'm not "used" to anything haha.
>But don't let a single route of a grade be your bench mark
I've mostly cleared all the lower grade routes, and one of that color, and then basically hard stuck by all the others. This is the one I tried the most tho.
I foolishly thought if only I got that one move right the rest would be easy, but I'm not sure if you notice in the picture, but the next footing is way over there in top right and I couldn't reach it (the other grabs are a bit above this one I'm trying to reach and there are a LOT stuff between them in the way to prevent you from simply holding into one then moving to the next, you gotta put your feet on that little thingy on the right, but like I said, I hardly even get stabilized up there to try the next move.
I do rest around that much yes.
>I climb for like 2 months, I'm not "used" to anything haha
I kinda figured. But don't worry, it's normal for climbs to feel really fricking hard at first, and V2/V3 is usually where people start to develop real climbing strength.
>I've mostly cleared all the lower grade routes, and one of that color, and then basically hard stuck by all the others. This is the one I tried the most tho.
Choose 2-3 routes you think you can do and just focus on those. Try and make them different styles so working on one doesn't make it harder to work on another. The nature of projecting (climber-talk for trying hard shit) is that it requires lots of attempts, sometimes multiple sessions to clear something. But it feels amazing when you do. Don't get fixated on getting shut down by a climb, then giving up and moving on. From here on out, climbs will require work to get to the top, and eventually as you grow in skill and strength, your flash level will naturally increase (Flash is climber-talk for getting up the route your first try)
Could you try taking a picture of the entire route that you're working on and not just the start? A final piece of advice - Don't get discouraged by this feeling. It's completely normal to struggle with a problem, and overcoming it will make you better. Usually people who get through the V3-4 plateau find themselves getting plateued at V5-V6 simply because by that point they're cruising through most boulders set in the gym, and find more enjoyment just fricking around than actually trying to improve. The reason weaker climbers don't get used to that is because MOST gyms in a climb shut you down. Once you get past this, you need to learn to enjoy the grind. Keep looking for problems that're hard, never get used to just fricking around because then you really WILL plateau. Also, make sure you rest a FULL day between climbs. M/W/F is a good schedule, resting every other day with a full weekends rest to recover.
>Could you try taking a picture of the entire route that you're working on and not just the start?
I can try taking a full pic saturday, it's 3 more holds that aren't shown (it ends at the top of the wall, no hold just a specific spot). I've been doing only once a week because I was getting fricked up trying two, but this week I'll try two again as I don't feel that beat up.
That said I do work out as well, for whatever good or bad that might do so I think moving to 3 is going to take longer
I was also someone who took awhile to adapt to the volume of climbing. Definitely make it a goal to climb 3 days a week (no more than that, 3 is sufficient). Looking forward to seeing the pic saturday, hopefully you'll make more progress and we can help.
7 tries, 3 got past the start, third I did it. It only cost me my arm, I am now completely fricked up. Absolutely clear I can't workout 5-6 times a week then climb 2X. Doesn't help I had to try the move up there several times but at least I never have to do this again
why are you abusing your body anon?
Because I actually was climbing only one. Been trying to move to two but yeah it's obvious I can't. Being 33 sucks, should have started this shit 10 years ago
IDK what I do now. Either do 1X and never progress on climbing or drop to 4 workouts or something and never become hot enough to not die alone
do what you like. with 1X climbing you can also progress (slowly). and dropping from 5 to 4 workouts weekly will hardly affect your relationship status
>33
>thinks it's over
>Unironically does a 5 day split despite being a novice with no exercise experience
Ask me how I know you look dyel. Be real anon, why do you think you're going to progress without doing a strength training program first? Do starting strength.
>why should I do-
picrel
All joking aside I think I will look into reducing to four days. Should probably be viable to climb wed / sat, do only cardio on sunday and workout the other days.
does a 5 day split despite being a novice with no exercise experience
I have plenty of gym experience even if you are correct when you assume I look like shit, because I do, mostly to do with my diet than anything else. I have been focusing on that over the past six months or so to some result and will probably continue on that route.
Also I have shitty back with a lot of issues and don't do squats or deadlifts, which I know makes me a sinner in the eyes of everyone who lifts, but I'd rather not suffer with chronic back pain from doing these exercises without proper and constant supervision which I won't pay for.
>"I have plenty of gym experience"
>Doesn't squat or deadlift
>Doesn't do those because they "cause back problems"
>But don't worry, he has plenty of expeerience
>Doesn't lift heavy because lifting heavy is bad
>Experience.png
Seriously though, I'd recommend hiring a coach. It's what I did. It's what accelerated my progress. Lifting with a coach means you don't have to be afraid of doing exercises that will benefit you. Squatting and deadlifting is far less dangerous than you would think. But that's because I actually have lifting experience. If you want results, and want them fast, suck it up and pay for a coach. Every penny is worth it, because it's a penny spent knowing you won't get injured, or frick anything up (Note - even if you went coachless, the odds of you actually getting back problems is minimal). Want to know why you have "back problems"? It's because your back is weak as shit. Climbing will help with it. Lifting will help with it.
>even if you are correct when you assume I look like shit
Stop giving people who roast you ammo.
>Seriously though, I'd recommend hiring a coach. It's what I did. It's what accelerated my progress.
I did hire a coach not too long ago. In fact, I'm gonna contact him to setup a 4 day plan after explaining I've started bouldering. In fact, one of the reasons why I stopped training with him was to go to a bouldering gym, after all, not like he or the climbing gym are free.
With that said, we had this talk about pain and my back. He agreed I shouldn't put undue stress on my back. In the past I even had to use those body jackets. We have gone with other exercises for back strengthening. I no longer feel pain basically every morning when waking up so it worked out for the best.
At the end of the day, I fully understand you are just trying to help, but I had this same talk with paid professionals as well. Some exercises are simply too painful for me to execute if I put any reasonable weight, so I don't. Other stuff I can execute with no problems and use appropriate weights. I understand it does limit me to a certain point but still better than hurting myself for gains.
>Stop giving people who roast you ammo.
I mean, it's true, I'm not gonna come here and pretend i bench 200kg and look like a greek god while asking for help like everyone else on Fhite.
Just to conclude, you're probably assuming I just have 'generically bad back and pains' when it's more like "I have a full album collection of stuff that ends with 'osis'" and spent significant time in my younger days to somewhat put that crap in control.
Alright fair enough. Sounds like you actually have shit that most people THINK they have but not really. It's not my business what happens between you and a medical professional. But I will say this:
1) - Whether you go 3,4,5,6 times a week or whatever, you have to be consistent. If you work out one less day a week in exchange for climbing, it's not like you've reduced your gains, because climbing is still training. Also, more rest can generally help between workouts
2) - Progressive overload is the key. As long as you're stronger now than you were 3 moths ago, you're doing fine, regardless of how hard it seems.
3) - We're all going to make it. Don't let people demotivate you and shit on you for having fitness goals. If people seethe, let them. Focus on you. You did good by sending that V2, so now follow the other advice that was given and just learn the movement patterns climbing needs.
On top of being a dicklet, this Fhitegay is also a manlet.
Bruh I'm not bouldering for endurance. I'm not that moronic. I just wanted to contrast the big difference in grades. I will look into that method. Thanks
Yea now that you mention it I should get better at resting too. And I already try to climb as efficiently as possible. My climbing partner berates me everytime I don't.
There's a technique to not getting pumped on top of just good climbing technique. Try doing routes you get can do easily but feel the pump on, but focus on using the most efficient moves possible, also practice finding rests and resting, resting is crucial. Basically anywhere you can hang from a jug with good feet you should be able to fully recover.
second day back at climbing after about 9 years of nothing and im back to v2s and 5.9s. feelsgoodman.
Post your best strength feats-
Weighted pullup - 65lbs
Hangboard on a 18mm edge - 5 seconds
Hangboard on a 20mm edge - 11 seconds
Front lever progression - Advanced tuck, 8 seconds.
Weighted pullup: +100lbs @ 165lb bw
20m edge half crimp: +90lbs, 7s
8mm edge: 15s bw
6mm edge: 7s bw
I boulder around v8-10 outdoor depending on style of problem
That;'s mad impressive. How long have you been climbing for? Btw in my original post forgot to mention I'm 185lbs
7 years or so. I think my stats are about average for my grade but idk
I'm still impressed. V10 outdoors is insane. Sometimes getting stuck feels awful.
If it makes you feel better, I've only been climbing on/off for 2.5ish years, but in terms of months spent climbing I've been consistently doing it for 15 months total. Climbed for 9 months, then I took 18 months off, then started again consistently for the last 6 months. I climb V5-V6 indoors, no clue what my outdoor grade is because my state has no fricking outdoor climbs, the last time I bouldered outdoors was 2021 where I did a few V2s.
>Post your best strength feats-
>Weighted pullup - Can't do a normal pull up
>Hangboard on a 18mm edge - Can't hang
>Hangboard on a 20mm edge - Can't hang
I'm a beginner.
>Can't do a normal pull up
not a single one? damn
Well I haven't tried in years but last time I tried yes.
>brooo this video is so SKATE vibes man, fricking skater shit yeah duuuuuuuuuuude
why are all the mellow fans obsessed with "skate style"? why aren't they watching actual skate stuff?
idk but I can't stand the DUDE WEED skater vibes, it just feels so israeli
Pulled on a 2-finger pocket pretty hard, felt a pretty sharp pain and heard a crunch in my wrist. I think it’s an ringfinger A1 pulley injury judging by the slight swelling/soreness of the palm and the radiating pain to the wrist and forearm from hyperextension. The exact same thing happened in the same bit of the same route to one of my climbing buddies during the same session too.
Fricking goddamnit but oh well, it happens. Guess I’ll take a week off, do some rehab and avoid pockets for a while.
*end of not a blog*
after your week off palpate the area and if there's any pain at all (and if you intend to keep climbing) you'll need to do some rehab or else you'll make it much much worse for yourself.
are you fingerboarding regularly? if not it's wise to be choosy with your climbs.
Yeah, I’ll certainly make sure to not stress it before the acute inflammation is gone. I’m thinking of doing a lot of stretching and some massaging after that and I’ll only climb stuff that doesn’t agitate it.
I don’t fingerboard except when warming up and I only do a bit of 5 sec bodyweight hangs. Interestingly enough there’s only minimal pain when crimping or pinching so we kept on climbing for the rest of the session, although we of course took it a little easier.
I suppose buddy taping it would be beneficial. Wonder if it’s better to tape the ring and pinky fingers together or ring and middle fingers?
I mean taping it for the climbing sessions to come. I certainly don’t intend to keep it taped all day long.
>I mean taping it for the climbing sessions
you'll have to retape it every attempt you go for on the wall for the tape to actually do anything.
>I certainly don't intend to keep it taped all day long
anon, I... I think I'll let you do your own research on that one lmao
>The exact same thing happened in the same bit of the same route to one of my climbing buddies during the same session too.
Is there a moment in the climb where you have to dyno into a pocket or something? Did you fall off the pocket as you grabbed it? What grade was the climb? Also, do you have pain forming a fist? A1 injuries are the rarest of all, and this sounds more like a tweak than anything.
>Interestingly enough there’s only minimal pain when crimping or pinching
If you're able to climb through the pain, then just do active recovery. You probably don't even need a full week off, just a couple of days, then have light sessions where you do jugs/slopers/stuff that doesnt hurt it. Even if pain is present, you can climb. What's important to note is if the pain gets worse during or between sessions. Sometimes shit hurts, and you can tweak things, doesn't mean you shouldn't train. Sounds to me like the pain was manageable. If it were a more serious injury that demanded rest/recovery, you probably wouldn't have been able to continue climbing.
Soft tissues, especially the tendons, recover and strengthen under load. If you can load the general area, even only slightly by climbing at or below your flash grade, the tissue reconstructive process will be aided. You won't have lost as much (if any) strength in the area.
Finally, you should be hangboarding somewhat regularly. 5 second hangs at bodyweight are a great warmup, but will not provide enough stimulus to result in a strength adaptation. Progressive overload is always going to be the key. After this event, you may try to avoid pockets altogether. Don't. This will only frick with you in the long run. You need to expose your fingers to load to help them recover. Try doing a 7 second on, 3 second off repeater program easily found online. Max hangs are good once you're fully recovered. Repeaters can be done at lower intensity and are fantastic for thickening and strengthening the tendons.
>but will not provide enough stimulus to result in a strength adaptation. Progressive overload is always going to be the key
this works but you're wrong, even consistent hangboarding with your feet on the ground and just 70-80% of your bodywieght being taken by your arms will get you finger strength results.
You still need progressive overload. You will never get a 4 plate deadlift by doing lots of 1 plate deadlifting. It'll never happen. Same with finger strength.
>this works but you're wrong, even consistent hangboarding with your feet on the ground and just 70-80% of your bodywieght being taken by your arms will get you finger strength results.
What this anon said is right:
>You still need progressive overload. You will never get a 4 plate deadlift by doing lots of 1 plate deadlifting. It'll never happen. Same with finger strength.
It is true that soft tissue can remodel itself under submaximal loads, but it will not strengthen. Emil Abrahamson's hangboarding twice a day protocol basically illustrated that - submaximal hangboarding develops neurological connections and allows tendons to repair themselves faster from the stresses of climbing, but they do not and cannot get progressively overloaded. The stimulus from climbing/hangboarding has to be the driver of progression. This is the ideal cycle:
Hangboard/Climb hard routes to promote a strength adaptation, then do submax hangs to help speed up the recovery. I combine submax hangs with my regular climbing and have witnessed ridiculous increases in fingerstrength.
>The route is graded 6C+
You definitely need to start hangboarding, and this is the perfect grade to start, once you're ready. Look up any number of hangboarding programs and do it once a week. It doens't have to be soul-crushingly hard, if a bodyweight hang is difficult, keep your feet on the ground and just apply force to your fingers. You'd be surprised how quickly they adapt. Do it briefly at the end of a session, or just do it as a replacement for climbing on that day. If you climb MWF, you can climb MW, then on Friday do a decently challenging hangboard session then use the weekend to recover.
>climb twice a week and skip the third climbing day for a hangboard session
this is not the way, just do some warmup hangs and end with a few good effort hangs before your climbing session. climbing itself is way more important at that level
Getting to use the pocket itself with your right hand isn't the problem because there's a good left hand hold right before it. The problem is that it's a bit of an overhanging route and the footholds around that point aren't great so when you have to bump your left hand up onto a pretty bad hold, a lot of force is exerted onto the right hand. The route is graded 6C+, and yeah, forming a fist is somewhat painful.
Regarding taking time off, I'm going to make sure that the signs of inflammation are gone before I start stressing it. Taking a week off is no biggie for me. Thanks for all the advice, though.
>you'll have to retape it every attempt you go for on the wall for the tape to actually do anything.
Why would that be?
>anon, I... I think I'll let you do your own research on that one lmao
It'd be best to not limit the range of motion of the finger when you're not purposefully loading it, no?
Anyone have experience with a finger that hurts but not when gripping? I can pick up things, 3 finger drag, 4 finger half crimp all just fine. But weirdly when I like bend the finger it just aches. No amount of pressing/twisting the finger triggers it, so I know it's not a pulley. I think it's a minor tendon strain or something. I'm going to continue to climb on it because it literally doesn't hurt while doing so, but it's still a weird sensation.
What's the difference between normal and vegan skwama? Are they the same apart from stretch?
You are automatically moral grandstanding with your "ethically" sourced shoes.
fricks sake so I HAVE to go for the leather skwamas?
Guys I can't do this plateauing thing anymore. I take a 3 week break from climbing, come back to it, it's been 4 weeks and I'm struggling to do what I did before. What the frick happened to me. My finger strength dropped and never recovered. Tried hanging the same weight I did a month ago, now my finger's tweaked, so I have even less reason to climb. V5's feel so hard, yet everyone here treats them like a pushover/meme grade. The frick am I doing wrong. I rest 8 hours nightly, I eat lots of protein, why does this shit keep happening to me.
>Indoor climber gay
I know, but nearest crag is 90 mins away by car I don't have.
Do you have a structured training plan? If not, make one now. You are gonna need it even more because of your tweaked finger. Active recovery is pretty good for these types of injuries. You should also work on your mindset. 3 weeks is a long break. You definitely lost some of your muscular and neurological adaptations. But with a good training plan you should've been easily back on track after 4 weeks.
Yes.
>Structured training plan
I did. It stopped working. My plan was -try hard moves until I got them. Then it stopped working. I never feel like I'm fully recovered when I enter the gym, I always feel like I'm getting pumped. After my 3rd session back, I was flashing V4s and I knew I was heading somewhere. Then I realized I could even do kilterboard problems at a 45 degree angle, something I could never do before. But then why can't I do the new V5s that've been setup? The old V5s were challenging, but not this fricking impossible. Each one of them feels impossible to get more than halfway through, and I can't even practice the beta because there's no jugs nearby to help me practice where I fall off, so if there's a hard move, I have to redo the ENTIRE FRICKING PUMP SEQUENCE to even practice it. Also some moves are just sketchy as frick. If you fail, and fall, you're GOING to fall 6 feet. I almost hurt my wrist attempting this one move that literally requires a fricking feet match horizontal to the ground. There is no possible way to commit to the move without risking falling on your ass sideways.
Plus there's just hard moves that don't work no matter how many times I try them. I just fall off after a few seconds. That's not training, that's just me being a larping homosexual.
>You should be back to where you were
In terms of strength, I'm stronger, but my finger strength fell and I have no fricking clue why. I even lost like 5lbs in the past month fasting so I SHOULD be stronger. Jesus christ.
>Mindset is an issue
Literally all my friends are dyels who can't even do V2s, or prodigies who can do V7 moonboard problems in their first year. guess I belong to the former, because nobody seems to understand where I'm coming from. I'm working on my weighted pullups, lock offs, it's all going really well. Does it translate to my climbing? Frick no, because my pinch strength is ass and my crimp strength is ass too.
>My plan was -try hard moves until I got them. Then it stopped working.
Oh wow. Who would've guessed it would stop working. That's not a training plan at all. But you are doing some good progress for a year of climbing.
If you keep falling off a move, you should maybe try to calm down and analyse why you fell and work on those weaknesses. Was it lack of grip type strenght? Start training that grip type. Lack of technique? Find easier version of the move and practice it. Got pumped out? Start training endurance. And so on....
>fasting
Probably why you injured yourself. Your body recovers much slower when your are in a caloric deficit. You shouldn't push yourself to your limit every session if you are fasting. Tendons take longer to recover than muscles.
And holy shit. Your defeatist mindset is absolute garbage. Funny read tho. Kek'd reading your unhinged rant. You need to stop this shit immediately. It is holding you back in life in general. Nothing of what you said makes any sense if you just stop being angry at yourself. Imagine somebody else talked like this in front of you. You'd think they suck as a person. So why do you do it?
STOP comparing yourself to others. Who cares your friend can do a V7. Why don't you use it as a motivation instead of demotivation?
>Training plan
>What do you recommend?
Well there are 4 major areas you need to train for climbing. Finger strength/grip strenght, endurance, technique and overall body strenght.
Finger strength training can be some hangboard routine you find from the Internet. The same principles apply to other grip types. Hard board climbing is also a finger strenght training to a degree.
For endurance you can do 4x4 or some circuits or ARC...
For technique I already said, find a move you want to train and train it on good holds and then do the same on shittier hodls.
And you are already doing overall body strength training so keep it up. Don't do all of them everyday. Do like 2 of them and then climb
Thanks for sage advice. I unhinged rant because it's just nice to vent on a thread where nobody can react. But you said interesting things.
>Hard board climbing can be a good tool for finger strength
That's what I thought too, so I stopped hangboarding, but then my finger strength went down. From now on, I'm going to hold off on kilter because I can gain more from fingerboarding and campusing separately. After my finger heals ofc. It's been about 4 days and I climbed on it last night, felt fine, not painful, but it aches slightly when wake up in the morning (as has been the case since I got it). I suspect it's just a very minor finger tendon strain since no specific hand position hurts it.
>Was it lack of grip type strenght? Start training that grip type
It's a really shitty crimp on a slightly overhung position with poor feet positioning, and you need to bump to a very shitty volume. It's not one specific grip type, it's an amalgum of tricky things that when combined turn it into a nightmare. Thing is, when I'm fresh, I can usually muscle my way through it. But after 4 attempts (with full 4-5 minute rests between), it just becomes damn near impossible. I know that my footwork is the problem, which is why I don't know what to focus on. My endurance seems to be a limiting factor here. My friends can hang off it for several seconds longer than I can, but I can still hang off it for long enough to send with perfect technique. But I'm also taller (I'm 6'2), and my short friends' beta is different from mine, making me feel more hopeless.
>That's what I thought too, so I stopped hangboarding, but then my finger strength went down.
Yea that's why I said to a degree. It's more of a contact strenght training (how much force can you generate in a split second) rather than absolute strenght. Still important for sending hard climbs.
>I know that my footwork is the problem, which is why I don't know what to focus on.
You perfectly analysed what you lack. You can focus one or two of those things at the beginning of every session. You don't have to tackle it all at once. Or you can go by what you think you lack most and work your way to other less lacking stuff.
>Does that actually work? I feel like it'd just be a bunch of junk volume
It's specifically an endurance training. You need volume for that.
>I'm a believer that technique can only be improved on routes you find to be difficult.
That's where you perfect technique. Technique is like any other skill. You start by practicing it on easy things and then you gradually make it harder. Imagine if your 1st time heelhooking was on some crimp in an overhang. You wouldn't learn much about heelhooking. It's also good to practice the basics. So even during 4x4 you can train the basics if you focus on technique and climbing as efficiently as possible.
>Maybe my training isn't even the issue, but my recovery.
Oh definitely. If you can't recover enough between sessions you will have a miserable time on the wall. You should get your nutrition and rest sorted out. Even if you feel depressed. Just take a week off, recenter yourself and slowly get back into it.
>Yea that's why I said to a degree. It's more of a contact strenght training (how much force can you generate in a split second) rather than absolute strenght. Still important for sending hard climbs.
How could my contact strength go up but my true strength go down?
thanks for your help
Honestly, I have no idea why that happened. It is a different kind of adaptation but I don't know why your true strenght went down. It is kinda weird.
Let's face it - my body is a pathetic excuse for life, and I'm going to tell my girlfriend tomorrow that I'm brekaing up with her because I'm ashamed and embarassed that she has to date such a larping gymcel homosexual like me who can't even climb outdoors. I'm a fricking failure homosexual b***h who should just kill myself I can't even climb V6 even though I've been at this for a year?! LMFAO i can't even do the easiest moonboard problems because I'm such a homosexual. I'm going to drop out of school too, I'm such a failure loser homosexual. I want to kill myself, because I'm a homosexual.
>Training plan
What do you recommend?
hahaha anyone ever been bullied by gym qts for not being able to pronounce veloces...
>not being able to pronounce veloces
fricking monolingual scum
>tfw you get bullied by the gym lesbian who becomes your friend for saying baelay your first week instead of belay.
>For endurance you can do 4x4
Does that actually work? I feel like it'd just be a bunch of junk volume I'd be wasting instead of projecting and improving my technique. The reason I limit climb all the time is because I'm a believer that technique can only be improved on routes you find to be difficult. So I hate the idea of flashing a bunch of easy shit because I highly doubt that doing 4x4 on a V3/V4 will help me send a V5 anymore than just trying multiple V5s. But you seem experienced.
Right now, I genuinely just want to take a week off to let my mind recover. It's just been bad session after bad session. Maybe my training isn't even the issue, but my recovery. Lately I've been depressed and not eating enough, hence the weight loss. None of it was intentional. I didn't WANT to be 5lbs lighter, but here I am, still not wanting to eat breakfast even though I haven't eaten in 12 hours. The lack of nutrition and slight burn out is a deadly combination. I'm just gonna frick off and watch catalyst climbing for a week and hope my spark comes back. Thanks for the advice man. Appreciate it x 1,000.
you should start counting your protein. even vegan climbers average 70g/day (though I can't even imagine the hormone problems caused by that quantity of basedbeans)
I for sure get more than 100g a day because I have 2 fairlife shakes a day, each worth 42g protein. Plus I have meat throughout the day. What protein should I be trying to hit?
sounds like you're already hitting it, but realize that if most of your protein comes from whey / casein, that WILL impact your hormones significantly
For the love of god tell me that if I hangboard alot like pewdiepie I can outclimb him. How is a 34 year old fricking youtuber outclimbing my dumbass, I'm 24 and bench his bodyweight for 20 reps.
few things to consider here (I hit v8 in 14 months)
1. hangboarding works but so does just climbing. I can't make it to the gym super often so I hangboard at least twice as frequently as I climb, but I also didn't start hangboarding until I was climbing some V6s. hangboarding WON'T give you breakthroughs that you wouldn't have hit just from climbing (until V5 at the earliest).
hangboarding won't make you better on the wall just like working out your triceps and deltoids in a gym won't make you a better swimmer even though they're some of the essential muscles for swimming.
2. pewdiepie himself said in the video those grades were inflated and probably v3/v4 instead of v5/v6, which is obviously true when you just look at them. the white route he struggled the most with clearly had the best pinch in the world but he failed on that move over and over. BUT if you're more concerned with grade chasing rather than becoming a better climber, you're gimping your progress (ie. only projecting climbs with features you're good at).
and 3.,
>bench
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>hangboarding WON'T give you breakthroughs that you wouldn't have hit just from climbing (until V5 at the earliest)
I began hangboarding in November. A month later, I sent my first V5. i stop hangboarding. I struggle with V5's. Coincidence? My fingers are also incredibly weak compared to my friends climbing V6/V7. They regularly crimp and kilterboard without issue. I find that kiltering beats the shit out of my hands.
>Pewdiepie grades were inflated
Okay... yeah... that's true.... Okay I'll hold off on suicide
>Grade chasing will grimp grades bc you won't do "easier" graded routes that aren't your style
True. 100% true. Frick slab climbing. I can't even do slab V4s because they're annoying as frick. But also
>Picrel
I only care about non-slab climbs.
>Grade chasing is bad
But...but... my life... can only have value.... once I hit the V8 grade for flashing. I just want to climb harder. Just want to be stronger. I have to work on my technique... Maybe I should just buy a coach.
I'm going to blast hangboarding and nobody on this board will stop me (I'm just gonna do it once a week like I used to and maybe up it to twice a week in a month).
Please tell me how I can climb harder asap.
>Please tell me how I can climb harder asap.
make your diet amazing and get 8+ hours of sleep every night. 3 sessions per week of climbing OR high intensity hangboard routines should be attainable, but the point is that at least a single rest day is absolutely necessary until you're an elite climber (mediocre climbers who are at the gym 5+ times a week are NOT climbing hard)
and of course, think about your projects so that when you return to them you can climb with flowing movement and confidence.
>went climbing outdoors first time today
>both me and my partner couldn't even finish a 6b (easiest climb at the only nearby crag) and had to bail
>we can normally lead 7a indoors
>gym is actually considered sandbagged and elitist by people
is this just bad grading or is there that much of a difference between outdoors and indoors? the climb we tried barely had any holds other than super positive crimps so spaced out you have to mantle on them
a big part if climbing outdoors is finding the holds that work for your body, usually its much more finicky and the best way to hold them isnt that obvious compared to gym holds, but the grade is probably realistic once you know the beta. consider hanging out with locals if your area is small but probably best to go to a different crag with some easier routes to get more of a hang of it at first
or just keep trying it, youre probably missing a bunch of footholds or decent smears
>probably best to go to a different crag with some easier routes
Big issue for me is there's almost no easy sport climbs around, it's all trad. As far as I understand the bolting ethic around here is that everything that can be protected trad must stay trad, naturally everything with super good holds is gonna have good gear placement as well so doesn't get bolted.
i love crack climbing the tape gloves make me feel like an anime ninja
I must agree
>is there that much of a difference
Depends on your gym. Outdoor routes will take some getting used to, though. There's always some kind of jank that you don't see in gyms. You might have some implicit assumptions about how to climb that will need to be reexamined.
Convince me not to lead rope solo.
I want to scare myself and get into bad situations so I can fortify my mind. I want to whip on gear over and over until my brain thinks of it like bolts. I want to rely on only myself.
I keep surveying my rack and deciding tomorrows the day and then pussing out. If Kirkpatrick can solo Sea of Dreams then I can surely solo 5.5.
climbing well means avoiding bad situations
I'm new to bouldering and am consistently sending V0/V1 problems, but I still feel too weak to do anything my gym has in V2+. A lot of routes at my gym have huge dynos or are reliant on overhangs. It's much harder than the last gym I went to.
Fizeek in picrel.
Keep climbing, climb at least 3 days a week.
if you think about climbing a lot you're going to improve very quickly. obviously you need to feed yourself good resources, but frequently I will fail a project in a session, think about different ways to possibly send it as I'm drifting off in bed, and then I send it easily on my first or second attempt the next session.
there's no reason why you can't crush overhang routes with your physique, just train pullups until you can do 10+ (I have a feeling you maybe already can) and focus on technique--that's enough strength for v5 (finger strength and forearm strength will come on its own at least up to that point).
you can also improve with just climbing just once a week if you hangboard regularly (doing daily nohangs OR doing a harder routine 1x/2x a week)
It’s over
been over for a while
>I b***h about struggling V5
>Pewdiepie is cruising through japanese V5's
I'm going to kill myself and make you all watch.
I HATE GEEK CLIMBER
we all do
did magnus break him and is he finally using chalk?